Brazil's Central-West Region
The Ultimate Brazil Travel Guide: Pantanal
The best wildlife in Brazil can be see here, in the world's largest wetlands
The Pantanal, located mainly in the states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, is the world’s largest tropical wetland and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The region is a biodiversity hotspot, home to jaguars, capybaras, caimans and hundreds of bird species, making it a premier destination for wildlife watching. During the dry season, the Pantanal becomes more accessible for eco-tourism, with activities such as boat safaris, horseback riding and birdwatching tours. The ecosystem is shaped by seasonal flooding, and its flat landscape enables a high concentration of visible wildlife.
The Northern Pantanal is accessed primarily via the city of Cuiabá in Mato Grosso. From there, travellers usually continue to the town of Poconé, which marks the start of the Transpantaneira Road. This dirt road extends for over 140 kilometres into the wetlands, crossing numerous wooden bridges and offering access to lodges and wildlife viewing points. The Northern Pantanal is considered one of the best regions for spotting jaguars in the wild, particularly along the Cuiabá and Piquiri Rivers during the dry season from July to October. Many lodges provide guided river safaris and photographic tours.
The Southern Pantanal is reached through Campo Grande in Mato Grosso do Sul. From there, popular access points include the towns of Miranda, Aquidauana and Corumbá. This region has a mix of private ranches (fazendas) and ecolodges offering wildlife tours, horseback riding, fishing and cultural experiences with local communities. The Southern Pantanal is more developed for tourism and has slightly better infrastructure, though it remains largely rural. The region also offers opportunities for boat tours along the Miranda and Paraguay Rivers.
Bonito, located in the state of Mato Grosso do Sul, lies to the south of the Pantanal and is known for its clear rivers, caves and freshwater snorkelling. While not within the Pantanal floodplain, Bonito is often included in Pantanal travel itineraries due to its proximity and ecotourism appeal. Key attractions in Bonito include snorkelling in the Rio da Prata and Sucuri River, visiting the Gruta do Lago Azul and exploring underground caves. The town has a well-established tourism infrastructure and is accessible by road from Campo Grande.
Top 10 Things to See & Do in the Pantanal
Jaguar spotting boat safari – Depart from Porto Jofre at the end of the Transpantaneira Road in the Northern Pantanal (Mato Grosso) for guided boat tours on the Cuiabá and Piquiri Rivers during the dry season (July to October), when jaguar sightings are most frequent.
Birdwatching at Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense – Located near the town of Cáceres (Mato Grosso), this federal park hosts hundreds of bird species including hyacinth macaws, jabirus and kingfishers.
Horseback riding on a working cattle ranch (fazenda) – Common in the Southern Pantanal near Miranda or Aquidauana (Mato Grosso do Sul), where guests can ride through flooded fields and savannah landscapes with local cowhands.
Night spotlight safari – Offered at ecolodges along the Transpantaneira Road (Mato Grosso) and near Miranda (Mato Grosso do Sul), where guides use spotlights to find nocturnal animals such as ocelots, caimans and giant anteaters.
Piranha fishing and river wildlife viewing – Available in the rivers near Corumbá (Mato Grosso do Sul), where tours include fishing for piranhas and observing capybaras, otters and caimans along the riverbanks.
Hyacinth macaw conservation visit – Visit the Refúgio Ecológico Caiman near Miranda (Mato Grosso do Sul), a private reserve involved in macaw conservation, offering guided tours and educational programs.
Snorkelling in the Rio da Prata – Located in Bonito (Mato Grosso do Sul), this activity involves floating down a crystal-clear river while observing freshwater fish species and submerged vegetation.
Cave exploration at Gruta do Lago Azul – Near Bonito, this cave features a deep underground lake with strikingly blue water and prehistoric fossils, accessible with a guide.
Canoeing during the wet season – Offered near Poconé (Mato Grosso) during the transition months (May to June), when water levels still allow paddling through partially submerged forests.
Wildlife photography tours with expert guides – Available throughout the Pantanal, especially at lodges in Porto Jofre and along the Rio São Lourenço (Mato Grosso)
Where to stay in the Pantanal
Accommodation in the Pantanal includes eco-lodges located in remote areas for wildlife viewing, pousadas in towns such as Miranda, Aquidauana and Corumbá, and options along the Transpantaneira Road. You may also need to pass through the Pantanal gateway cities of Campo Grande and Cuiabá, which offer a wider range of services and airports, busses, and other transport connections.
Find cheap accommodation for your trip to the Pantanal:
Find cheap accommodation in Bonito
Find cheap accommodation in Campo Grande
Find cheap accommodation in Cuiaba
Find eco-lodges in Miranda, Aquidauana and Corumbá
Find eco-lodges on the Transpantaneira Road
Where is the Pantanal, Brazil
Quick Facts about the Pantanal
Population of the Pantanal
There is no single figure for the population of the Pantanal, as it is huge area coving two states, and is home to many cities and towns. The populations for the major cities in and around the Pantanal are:
Campo Grande: 962,883 people (IBGE, 2025)
Corumbá: 98,751 people (IBGE, 2025)
Aquidauana: 48,689 people (IBGE, 2025)
Miranda: 26,512 people (IBGE, 2025)
Cuiaba: 691,875 people (IBGE, 2025)
Pocone: 31.203 people (IBGE, 2025)
Bonito: 25,034 people (IBGE, 2025)
Airports in the Pantanal
Campo Grande International Airport – CGR
Corumbá International Airport – CMG
Bonito Regional Airport – BYO
Cuiabá International Airport - Marechal Rondon – CGB
Bus terminals in the Pantanal
Terminal Rodoviário de Campo Grande
Terminal Rodoviário de Cuiabá
Rodoviária de Bonito
Rodoviária de Miranda
Rodoviária de Aquidauana
Rodoviária de Poconé
Rodoviária de Corumbá
Ports in the Pantanal
Numerous small docks along the Pantanal's rivers that allow for boat excursions
How to get to the Pantanal
Access to the Pantanal depends on whether you are visiting the northern or southern region. Both areas are served by different cities, roads and transport infrastructure. Travel planning should consider the seasonal conditions, as road access may be limited during the wet season: November to March.
How to get to the Northern Pantanal (Mato Grosso)
The main entry point for the Northern Pantanal is Cuiabá, the capital of Mato Grosso. Cuiabá has a commercial airport (Marechal Rondon International Airport) with direct flights from major Brazilian cities including Sao Paulo, Brasilia, Belo Horizonte, and Rio de Janeiro.
From Cuiabá, travellers typically drive or take a transfer to Poconé, located approximately 100 kilometres southwest. Poconé is the starting point of the Transpantaneira Road, a dirt road that extends over 140 kilometres into the wetlands, ending at Porto Jofre on the banks of the Cuiabá River. The road has more than 100 small wooden bridges and is best navigated by 4x4 vehicle during the dry season. There are various accommodations, includuing ecolodges and fazendas (farms) located along the Transpantaneira and often offer transfer services.
How to get to the Southern Pantanal (Mato Grosso do Sul)
The main entry point is Campo Grande, the capital of Mato Grosso do Sul. Campo Grande International Airport has direct flights only to and from Sao Paulo and Brasilia. From Campo Grande, travellers can reach several gateway towns by road:
Aquidauana and Miranda, around 140 and 200 kilometres west of Campo Grande respectively, are accessible via paved highways and are common starting points for stays at fazendas and lodges offering wildlife activities.
Corumbá, located near the Bolivian border, is approximately 430 kilometres from Campo Grande and serves as a base for river tours and fishing trips. It also has a small regional airport with limited domestic flights.
How to get to Bonito
Bonito is located about 300 kilometres southwest of Campo Grande. Bonito is often visited in combination with the Southern Pantanal. Bonito Regional Airport receives limited flights only from São Paulo state.
Private transfers and minibus services are available between Campo Grande and Bonito, taking around 4 hours.
How to get around the Pantanal
Getting around the Pantanal requires careful planning due to the region’s seasonal flooding, limited infrastructure and remote locations. Most internal travel is done by road, boat, or small chartered aircraft, depending on the season, destination and type of activity.
Travelling between the North and South Pantanal
If you plan to visit both the north and the south Pantanal on one trip, the best way to travel between these two areas is by bus. There is a direct bus between Campo Grande (Southern Pantanal) and Cuiabá (Northern Pantanal). The bus takes around 12+ hours, and the trip can be made overnight (tickets & timetable).
Bus companies operate this route regularly, and tickets and timetables are available through major terminals or online platforms. The route is entirely paved and reliable year-round.
Travel Within the Pantanal
By Road: Travel within the Pantanal is mainly by 4x4 vehicle, especially along the Transpantaneira Road in the north and the Estrada Parque Pantanal in the south (near Corumbá). These dirt roads are often only accessible during the dry season (May to November). Lodges and tour operators usually provide transfers from towns like Poconé, Miranda and Aquidauana to remote accommodations.
By Boat: In flood-prone areas, especially during the wet season (December to March), travel is sometimes only possible by motorboat or canoe. Many wildlife tours in Porto Jofre, Miranda and Corumbá are conducted entirely by river. Boats are also used to reach remote ecolodges, especially in areas with limited road access.
By Charter Flights: Some lodges and tour operators offer light aircraft transfers from major cities like Cuiabá or Campo Grande to private airstrips closer to the lodge. This is common for higher-end lodges in remote northern or southern areas.
By Public Transport: Public buses reach gateway towns such as Poconé, Miranda, Aquidauana and Corumbá, but they do not operate within the wetland area itself. Local transfers are needed beyond these points.
Due to the size and ecological conditions of the Pantanal, it is not feasible to travel freely without pre-arranged transport, and most travellers rely on packages that include both accommodation and guided travel.
Things to know before you go to the Pantanal
Seasonal Access: The Pantanal has two main seasons. The dry season (May to November) is the best time for wildlife viewing and road access. The wet season (December to March) brings heavy rains, flooding and limited road travel. Some areas may only be accessible by boat or air.
Bring Cash: Remote areas and small towns often do not accept cards. Bring cash in Brazilian reais. ATMs are available in larger cities like Cuiabá and Campo Grande but will not be available in smaller towns.
Connectivity: Mobile signal and internet access are limited or unavailable in many parts of the Pantanal, including within lodges located in remote areas. Plan accordingly.
Mosquitos: Mosquito repellent is essential to protect against dengue and other insect-borne illnesses. The yellow fever vaccine may also be recommended for travellers to the Pantanal. Check with a travel health clinic for up-to-date advice.
Guided Tours: Independent travel within the wetlands is not practical. Most activities require licensed local guides and can be arranged through lodges.
Wildlife Etiquette: Maintain a respectful distance from animals and follow guide instructions at all times. Wildlife viewing in the Pantanal is typically non-intrusive and conservation-focused.
Luggage and Clothing: Bring light, long-sleeved clothing, sun protection, waterproof bags and closed shoes or boots. Some lodges provide essentials like rubber boots during the wet season.
Travel insurance for a trip to the Pantanal
Travel insurance is not just a nice-to-have, it is an important safety-net that can prevent a stressful incident from turning into a costly and time-consuming disaster. The reality is that unexpected events can happen on any trip. Even something as simple as missing a connecting flight can lead to unexpected accommodation and transport costs. If you become unwell, medical bills in another country can quickly become expensive. Without insurance, you have to handle all of this on your own in an unfamiliar environment, possibly in a language you do not speak.
I have personally relied on travel insurance multiple times, including when I had belongings stolen in Europe, fell sick while travelling in Asia, and had flights cancelled. In each case, the support I received meant I could focus on solving the problem instead of worrying about costs.
When travelling to the Pantanal, it is especially important to have travel insurance that covers medical emergencies and evacuation, as the remote location can make access to specialised care more difficult.
For a small daily cost, you can be covered for a wide range of scenarios, from theft to delayed flights and medical emergencies. Having one phone number to call and a company that deals with the problem for you is worth far more than the price of the policy. I personally use Safety Wing, and I recommend them to friends, family, and anyone travelling internationally. You can get a quote here.
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